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Peach Butter
I first learned about apple butter from Oprah who returned from one of her
diets swearing it was the thing that saved her. I was crushed to learn a few
years later that it had no butter — what kind of no-fun diet is that?!
What are fruit butters? They’re something between a jam and a sauce, with the
flavor of jam but the smoothness of sauces. The good ones have the clear flavor
of pate
de fruits, but not the candy sweetness. They’re also easy to make and as
good slathered on a biscuit or piece of toast as they are stirred into your
morning yogurt.
If you’re looking for a traditional fruit butter, you’ll be surprised by the
moderate sweetness and clear peach flavor of this one. When I did some research
on apple butters, I found that most recommend 4 cups of sugar for 4 pounds of
fruit. I decided to take a leap — took a deep breath and nervously eyed the stove
— and halved it. Most recommend one to two tablespoons of cinnamon and a
bunch of other spices. I decided to use none. Humbly, I insist that these were
two of the best kitchen decisions I’ve made this week. Finally, I’ve found a
fruit butter that doesn’t hit you first with sugar. It’s just perfect, all
peach with enough tartness to remind you that it is, indeed, peach and not say
peach gummy bears. And with no spices to clutter it up, you feel like you’re
getting the best of peach season in a format that will last until there’s frost
on the windowsills.
Yield: 4 cups
4 pounds (1.8 kilograms) peaches
1 cup (237 ml) water
2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar
Juice of one lemon
Without a food mill: Cut a small “x” in the bottom of each peach. Dip each
into a pot of boiling water for 30 seconds, and then into a bowl of cold water
for a minute. The peels should slide right off. [If you have a food mill, skip
the peeling step and I'll tell you where to use it in a moment.]
Halve your peaches and remove the pits, then cut each half into quarters
(i.e. 8 chunks from each peach). Place peach chunks and water in a large pot
and bring to a boil. Simmer until peaches are tender, about 15 to 20 minutes,
stirring occasionally to ensure they cook evenly. If you have a food mill, run
them through it to puree them and remove the skins. If you don’t have a food
mill — i.e. you already peeled your peaches — you can puree in a food
processor, blender or with an immersion blender. I like my peach butter very
smooth, but feel free to leave any amount of texture you prefer.
Return the peaches to the large pot, add the sugar and lemon juice and bring
the mixture to a good strong simmer/gentle boil, cooking them at this level for
30 to 40 minutes, stirring occasionally in the beginning and more often near
the end, as it thickens up and the fruit masses risk scorching on the bottom of
the pot.
There are several methods to test for doneness: You can drizzle a ribbon of
sauce across the surface; when that ribbon holds its shape before dissolve into
the pot, it is done. Some people use cold or frozen plates; dollop a spoonful
in the middle of one and if no water forms a ring around it in a couple
minutes, it is done. Others use a spoon; if the butter remains rounded on a
spoon for two minutes, it is done. You can also check the pot itself; the
butter is usually done when a wooden spoon leaves a clear train when scraped
across the bottom.
Let peach butter cool (unless you’re canning it, in which, follow the
directions below). If you’re not canning it, keep it in an airtight container
in the fridge. It should be good for at least two weeks.
To can your peach butter: First, sterilize your jars, either by
boiling them in a large, deep pot of water (which should cover the jars
completely) for 10 minutes or washing them in lots of hot soapy water, rinsing
and drying the parts well and then place the jars only in a 200 degree oven for
20 minutes. Then, divide your hot piping hot peach butter between your jars,
leaving a little room at the top. Wipe the rims clean with a dry towel and
cover the jars with their lids. Submerge the jars in a large, deep pot of
boiling water for 10 minutes, either in a removable basket or using tongs to
dip and remove them. Let cool completely on towels, a process that can take
overnight. If canned properly, the peach butter should last indefinitely at
room temperature.
I did not have canning jars around when I made this, but am so so so
in love with it that I will be buying some and making more before the last peaches
are gone. I am a woman converted.
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